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Burnt Orange Ice Cream

Burnt Orange Ice Cream.

Do I really need to say anything else?

Okay, I will anyway. Those of you looking for bright and shiny orange sherbet, look elsewhere, this isn’t the recipe for you. This recipe is all about the dark side of citrus. Heat is involved—caramel, to be precise. Anyone who liked the blood orange tart [1] will like this ice cream. Friends of Grand Marnier will agree that this is one special scoop. Bryan declares this one of the best ice creams I have ever churned, and I completely agree. It is deeply flavorful and completely complicated. You’ll keep stealing another spoonful hoping to understand the flavor, but it remains elusive. It is a great recipe and I encourage all of you to make this now. Those of you without an ice cream maker, what are you doing without an ice cream maker?! Have you been reading this blog? Trade in your microwave.

Some of you may have noticed that old L + D got a bit of a facelift this week. Nothing major, just some tweaks to make it look a little slicker and work a little better. Huge thanks goes to Bryan who worked hard on the changes to the site. I also updated the About page [2] (which was woefully out of date) and the Chicago Guide [3] (adding a couple of new places and deleting a couple of places that weren’t keeping up).

I can’t believe I never mentioned this, but I contributed to the latest issue of Communal Table [4]. It is a wonderful publication and I am totally honored to be included in the project. I hope you will check it out and consider ordering a copy.

Burnt Orange Ice Cream (adapted from the Gourmet Cookbook [5])

Combine the cream, milk and zest in a 2-3 quart saucepan and bring just to a boil. Remove the pan from heat, cover, and let stand for 30 minutes.

Combine 1/2 cup sugar and orange juice in another saucepan and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Boil, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the syrup become a deep golden caramel. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully add 1/2 cup cream mixture (mixture will bubble and steam), and whisk until smooth. Add remaining cream in a steady stream, while whisking. Cook caramel mixture over very low heat, whisking, until caramel has dissolved and mixture is hot. Remove from heat.

Whisk together the egg yolks, remaining 1/4 cup sugar, and salt in a medium heat-proof bowl. Add hot caramel mixture in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard is thick enough to coat back of spoon and registers 170°F on an instant-read thermometer; do not let boil!

Pour custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl and stir in the vanilla. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate, covered, until cold, at least 3 hours.

Freeze custard in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions.