I was wondering if you were going to write about this new category in the Banchets; I was pretty freaked out by that phrasing. I reached out to them for explanation and got complete radio silence.
it’s ludicrous that this is the third largest city in the country, has such enormous immigrant and just plain-old not-white populations, neighborhoods like Avondale where it’s possible to shop Korean, eat Peruvian, shop (again) Polish, and then maybe Turkish—and that’s in a two-mile range—and still, there are some white folks who lump non-white populations into generalizations like “ethnic” without considering what exactly that means.
there is a possibility that they used the term ethnic to mean “a food belonging to a single national culture.” i’ve seen that done before. but I don’t know, since they didn’t answer questions.
So glad you liked noon-e barbari (noon is just the colloquial way of saying nan in Persian). Sometime you’ll have to try a Persian breakfast: barbari, feta (Bulgarian is closes to Persian breakfast cheese), Persian/Japanese cucumbers, walnuts, and fresh herbs. A sweet version is butter, clotted cream, sour cherry jam, walnuts. And lots of black tea.
Hey Patric! Thanks for always raging against the machine with me. I would have been more likely to give them the benefit of the doubt if it werent for the restaurants that made it into other categories. It’s a bummer, but unfortunately not surprising.
Your barbari is beautiful! And Sara’s got the right idea: warm barbari split open and spread with clotted cream (we call it sarshir in Persian) and sour jerry preserves is the best thing ever. Oh, and totally with you on the ‘ethnic’ nonsense.
I always enjoy your posts, and rarely comment, but thanks for noting the “ethnic” wording. It’s one of my pet peeves! Knowledge of food does not not equal knowledge of a culture, though it’s certainly one way to start, and the squashiness of “ethnic” is just aggravating in this day and age (just as bad when contestants on Top Chef, for example, complain that one chef only cooks “Asian”).
I appreciate your observation about people commenting on things they have minimal or no experience in. I have experience in Southern and Caribbean cooking and a deep and abiding interest in dishes from around the world. Admittedly, I do have several Ottolenghi cookbooks, but I don’t pass myself off as the expert in Mediterranean cooking – though the thoughtful combinations and beautiful pictures in his books inspire me. Your nan-e-barbari looks delicious – and just the thing that would veer me off of a gluten-free diet!
Tim -You made me order this book, but it won’t arrive for several days. In the meantime, I’d like to bake this bread and in reading the ingredients saw “2/14 teaspoons active dry yeast”. Am I right to assume it’s just a typo and should be “2 1/4”?
Tim this was so great! Literally loled/snorted when I read “Guess what, you didn’t discover za’atar, Becky.” Agree with you 100%, although I do appreciate Ottolenghi and his Jerusalem book for putting that type of food and culture more on everyone’s radar…and for helping to shift away from the misconception that hummus is a chickpea health paste to be eaten with pretzel chips ;)
I’ll have to try this! I’m spoiled living in Los Angeles, as I actually buy barbari from one of the smaller grocery chains that carries huge amounts of international foods and it comes from a local bakery. I also just saw this book mentioned elsewhere and now I have to check it out. Thanks Tim!
I can’t believe I missed this post. First of all your final product looks amazing. I am so impressed!!!!! Second I am dying laughing….that’s right Becky, you didn’t discover zaatar! Just dead. Ily Tim!